And now! This letter is brought to you by the letter J. And the letters C-R-E-W. One of my all time favorite brands, style north stars, and inspiration for a lot of what this letter is about. Under their new creative director, Olympia Gayot, the brand is linking back to some of its original cool, and feels more inspiring and relevant than ever. And I’m beyond thrilled/flattered to get to partner with them on my love for the 90s.
No matter how old I get, or how many years away from the end-of-summer back to school terror/rush of excitement I am, I still feel it. Like clockwork, around mid-August every year, that sinking feeling of….time to get my shit back together. Despite the fact that I’m not in school, and that I work all summer, I still have a gut punch reaction that I better put away my carry on and dust off my work bag.
Having two little kids who actually go back to school makes the feeling more intense. As I’m shopping for them, in the back of my mind I’m thinking about what I’m going to wear come September to look like I didn’t spend the last three months blissed out in Malibu. And invariably, my mind always goes to the sleek austerity of 90’s minimalism, and heritage functionality of 90’s prep.
It seems to me, in my history working in fashion, that various decades or vintage aesthetics cycle in and out of favor somewhat regularly. Whether it’s the actual clothing, or the references when it comes to campaigns, editorials, logo designs, interior designs, etc. We had our moment of 80’s Memphis, we’ve experienced tastes of 70’s Parisian disco, 60’s boho-hippies, and on and on. But the 90’s endures - we’ve felt the influence - at least in my opinion - the longest, and strongest. And it shows up in a million ways - Grunge, late 90s/early 00’s Pop Culture, Logomania (and on and on) - but I feel most personally compelled by minimalism and prep.
On the minimalist front, it’s all Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy and Gwyneth Paltrow chain smoking with Brad Pitt. It’s square necklines, crisp, slim skirts, oval sunglasses. It’s rigid and spartan, and honestly, speaks to the way I aspire to live, with just the most essential must-haves of must-haves, not loads and loads of wardrobe filler. See my last post on Closet Cleanout for more there.
It’s very this. And Goddamn if it doesn’t make me want a cigarette.
For those who speak in Instagram references, it’s very, Cabmate.
But tugging on my other hand, is this feeling of a more heritage 90s mood. More steeped in Americana - highly functional, practical, preppy. Again, speaking Instagram, it’s SimplicityCity and LostJCrew. There’s a soft practicality to this aesthetic that I love. Again, it’s essentials, clothes at their most clothes-y (designed to keep you warm, keep you cool, keep you covered, keep you safe) that in and of themselves broadcast very little about the wearer, but when worn by someone with a sense of style, speak volumes.
And while the two aesthetics were happening at the same time, the spareness of one feels in contrast with the gentleness of the other. And maybe that’s (just one) intersection of my own personal style. Meanwhile, it’s also what J.Crew has been nailing for the last couple of collections. Hints of that timeless stripped-back style, but infused with warmth and ease.
So in trying to kind of noodle around in that world a little more, I put together a few “back to school” - or more appropriately, back to real life - outfits for myself that speak to both parts of what I love about 90’s style, but that don’t feel costumey or pre-prescribed. A good look is only as good as its likelihood to be worn IRL. If that makes sense.
So here we go - here’s me going back to the real world after a really fun summer (and it has been a truly excellent summer!).
Blazer, Vest, Pants, Bag, and Sneakers
First, sort of a suit. I like the softness of pleat-front trousers, and the matchyness with a suit vest. The vest + pants feel distinctly within the category of heritage preppyness, but with a structured black blazer - I like the stand-up collar on this one - it feels more polished. And yes, sure, these cutie pie suit vests have been a thing again for a few years, but familiarity doesn’t make a combination less appealing - it makes it timeless.
This is exactly what I’d like to wear back to work after summer.
Jacket, Skirt, Cashmere shell, and Shoes
Ok also, guys, I have to say - I am feeling the deepest cringe over my mirror faces and poses, so here is my moment to acknowledge it and move on.
So anyway - the hero here appears to be the skirt. The overall shape and impression hits that sleek feeling perfectly, but the fringe element is unexpected, but not out of place. I love how dense it is, and that on first glance it almost looks solid, but as soon as you move you realize what makes it special. And then the jacket - the crop of it, the mandarin collar - everything about it sings with the simplicity and perfect, essential design that makes 90’s minimalism so appealing. Meanwhile, a pair of menswear-inspired shoes keeps it grounded in the 2020’s, rather than feeling to on-the-nose.
The overall impact of this, and what I love, is that the pieces individually each feel familiar - and could be vintage - and worn together they give some of that austerity that I first referenced, but there’s still movement, and more joy than starkness. This is something I’d be equally as likely to wear out with friends as I would be to an office.
And now! Man, dress of dreams. Navy! Straight neckline! Straight silhouette! Slinky, but not super feminine! I feel hot. I look hot!
But more to the point, here again, what I love is that this combination (strapless slip dress + ankle strap pumps + trench references the original touchpoint without being a literal copy. The trench has an interesting waxed/patent finish, which makes it a bit more interesting than a traditional canvas trench (though no less functional, given that it’s water resistant and has a hood), and also, again, takes it out of the realm of literal 90’s. The bag also is a navy suede which is like a tickle rub to my brain.
Of all three, however, this look is the most seamless blend of the two ends of the spectrum. The khaki trench and soft suede nods to New England heritage, while the stripped-back dress and heels speak to the Gwenyth or Carolyn-ness of the era. In fact, the dress is called “Gwyneth”.
Meanwhile, for a little more severe of a look, this satin dress would look great with the leather jacket I wore with the fringe skirt. And this patent-effect trench would go beautifully over the suit look. And that black blazer would soften up the black shell & skirt. Or the vest could go with the skirt! Or the black shell with the pleat pants! And on and on and on.
And thus - we have a micro-capsule for a fall wardrobe.
While we’re on the subject of Back to School, now that I have actual kids, I get to have some of the thrill and newness of Back to School shopping without the looming anxiety of homework, etc. So! For the hell of it, here are my picks from Crewcuts for both of my kids.
1. Pants, 2. Tee, 3. Loafers, 4. Half-Zip, 5. Backpack, 6. Trousers
My son is starting Kindergarden this year, and all of a sudden he has opinions about what he will and won’t wear. The loafers are mom’s greatest wish (he’s such an animal, he’d likely lose one on the playground - but god he would be so cute!), but the checkerboard pants, glow-in-the-dark T-Rex tee, and royal blue pants - all him.
1. Skirt, 2. Blouse, 3. Shoes, 4. Sweater, 5. Backpack, 6. Pants
Meanwhile, my daughter cannot choose her clothes - if it was up to her she’d only ever wear her dance leotard. I like this mix because while I think the glitter, embroidered cherries, and pink feel girly and delightful for a little girl, the materials are durable, sturdy, and a blessing, machine washable. She is also an animal.
Ta-da! Not that I’m ready for summer to be over emotionally but slightly more ready aesthetically.
Your friend,
Laurel
that feeling when you scroll down, see the blue collage & think, now *that's* my style, and then notice it's crewcuts
Beautifully put together letter