I LOVE Drag Race, and fellow enthusiasts will remember an episode where Eureka O’Hara touted the benefits of “proportionizing” - AKA, wearing the right proportions for your shape. In her case, she was speaking more to padding that regular dressing, but I can’t think about proportions without hearing Eureka scream PROPORTIONIZING! Which, weirdly, I can’t find a video of, but here’s this:
Anyway, I’ve written about my specific challenges with wide-leg pants, namely, which shoes to wear them with. I’m (mostly) over my aversion to closed toe shoes with wide-legs, as you’ll see here. But the other hangup I have is what to wear on top - how to balance the proportion of volume on the lower half of your body. In my magazine all the solutions are pat and neat days, we would say, wear something fitted on top. And while that still holds, it’s not always the most INTERESTING solution. It can make me feel a little….predictable. Meanwhile, I kept seeing runway looks that were pants-centric (I am Pants Mom) but had volume in other places as well. So into my closet I went.
And it started with these truly sublime wide-leg chinos from Citizens of Humanity. They run very large, so keep that in mind, but they’re soft, just wide enough, and are somehow both drapey and structured. They also come in tan and navy, but I thought I’d break my navy habit here and go olive green, though now I’m wondering if I need both pairs. What I wanted to avoid was anything overly obvious, and anything overly tricky. But a few different ways to show what to do with this kind of voluminous pant.
Swingy Coat
This might be somewhat obvious in that it’s a more fitted jacket, and it’s cropped, but it has a ton of volume. It’s basically like a circle skirt with sleeves, and made out of really stiff waxed cotton. So it’s big on bottom, and big on top. But the big on top works because….it’s cropped. I tried these pants on with my super swingy voluminous Merlette dress too just to see what would happen, but because the dress is a dress (longer than my bellybutton) AND tent-like, it just looked like I was trying really hard to make fetch happen.
So this jacket…it’s a very special one, I obsessed over it since I saw it at our Loewe appointment last fall, and I don’t have a good excuse except YOLO. It’s sold out pretty much everywhere, but there is one here.
1. The pants! The pants! Citizens of Humanity, $248
2. This little cropped canvas jacket has a similarly swingy and voluminous (I’m going to need another word for that) back. Anthropologie, $148
3. This little trench is a bit tidier than #1, so if your style is more polished than bohemian, I’d go here. I love that this one has a back vent. It’s very NYC in the 90s. J.Crew, $278
4. I LOVE the shape of this - very slouchy, very cool. I like that the sleeves are wide, but also bracelet length, so while it’s slouchy it’s also sleek. Nili Lotan, $850
5. The denim version of my Loewe jacket! The most beautiful, most special denim jacket of all time. Loewe, $1,200
6. These are what I’m wearing here. I still struggle a bit with wearing closed toe shoes with wide-leg pants, but because these are mesh….it’s easier? I love these shoes, I’ve wanted them forever, and now I wear them a ton. The Row, $690
7. A gorgeous fisherman sandal - this shoe is the missing link to so many outfits. It’s neither closed toe nor open toe, and also looks cute with socks. Emme Parsons, $515
8. And then ta-da! My favorite flip flops, which would also be great with this look, and 99% of things I own. Havianas, $26
Large Shirt
SO! Instead of a white tee, or tank, or something like that, I’m going BIG on top. With one of the biggest shirts I own. I’m still undecided if I like the khaki with the olive green or if it feels too…. Banana Republic before it got cute again. But anyway, I did it. I probably should have steamed the pants, but I have kids!!! What the fuck do you want from me! But I did put on a belt, which took the whole thing from sloppy oversized to POLISHED and oversized. But anyway, as you see - volume on top, volume on bottom, the only mirror pose I know how to do.
1. Once again! The pants! Citizens of Humanity, $248
2. The yellow of this shirt is less safari than my shirt, which tones down the whole thing a bit. This is my go-to men’s shirt. I’d buy the classic cut in Medium or Large so that it’s super oversize. J.Crew, $90
3. This poplin shirt has similar pleats at the cuff as mine, which is a really special detail. This is a crisp poplin, and I love that the buttons are covered with a placket here. I strongly dislike contrasting buttons. It also has pleats at the back to add size and shape to the shirt. Cos, $135
4. If I could do this over again, I think I’d wear a black shirt. I like this one from Alex Mill (it’s men’s) because…IT HAS MATCHING BUTTONS! Imagine how this would look with white buttons….distracting, right? Alex Mill, $130
5. These are the sandals I’m wearing here - I love who thin the strap is, and that it’s an interesting, though not bright or loud, color. These are sandals stripped back to the barest essential elements. The Row, $678
6. Classic Dr. Scholl’s! I love this shoe. It would make this outfit a little more playful, a little less minimalist. Dr. Scholl’s, $120
7. Ugggggg I LOVE THESE SANDALS!!!!! Ann Mashburn, $195
8. Normally I’m not at all a logo girl, but fuck it! It’s 2023! Let me have a logo! I love this stupid pouch, and the hand-heldness of it will not compete with the size of the shirt or width of the trousers. A huge bag would make me feel off balance here, but a little pouch is kind of grounding. Gucci, $895
9. Perfect Old Céline earrings under $500…say no more. Céline, $285
10. A really great belt with a leather covered buckle - my favorite. I have a covered buckle belt and it’s my go-to. This would be a great replacement. Madewell, $50
With A Dress
I wasn’t going to do anything that was like a styling trick, but when I put these on, a little voice in the back of my head kept saying ~put on a dress~ so I did. And I liked it! In terms of proportions, I think it works because the dress is slim cut, and longer than my knees. It also has a relatively high neck, so the full effect is like a long column of fabric. I like it in a kind of dELiA*s way, but less junior. I also think it works because the dress is in the same color family as the pants, but has a pattern, so it doesn’t all blend together too much. The dress is vintage Dries van Noten, which I got from The RealReal years ago and wear all the time - so I went back to the source to find more.
1. Hi hello, it’s the pants again. Citizens of Humanity, $248
2. A very lovely Dries sheath dress! The color, again, would blend nicely with the pants. Dries van Noten, $275
3. These colors are crazy, but I love that the dress is sheer. Wear this with a cutie black bra, and it would be SO GOOD over pants! Dries van Noten, $195
4. I like that this one has short sleeves - again! Sheer! This would also be nice if you unbuttoned a few buttons up the bottom of the dress. Dries van Noten, $348
5. And finally, from one of my favorite Dries collections of all time. I LOVE this, and want it for myself. I was obsessed with this collection! The plaid grunge feel will be a nice pairing with the trousers, but the shape and color is so pretty. Dries van Noten, $218
6. A very perfect, simple pair of leather sandals. Again, pared back to their most essential parts! Jenni Kayne, $345
7. And then! The Row hiking sandals! Another perfect, minimalist sandal! I’m getting a little redundant…but clearly I like minimalist sandals. The Row, $790
8. Do I even need to say it! Great sandals! Under $250! What’s not to love! A. Emery, $200
9. A very very very pretty, very affordable version of a tennis bracelet. This is the most classic jewelry piece ever, but made with lab-grown white sapphires instead of diamonds. It has beautiful sparkle, and looks great with everything. Dorsey, $255
10. And then! This gorgeous bracelet! The leather part ties around your wrist, so it’s like a perfect blend of soft strappy and bold metal. I love this piece. Isabel Marant, $335
Something Tight
And now… the obvious thing. If we’re talking proportions we have to do also do the easy thing! But rather than lean on a white tee, or fitted knit, or regular old white tank top, I went for a ~sweater vest~ because I love them. This one is by High Sport and is textured, on top of having a pattern. So in terms of shape, if you find yourself lost with wide-leg pants, return to home base - something fitted and short. But try a few fun things on before going straight to white tee.
1. And here we go again with the pants! Citizens of Humanity, $248
2. The vest! I love it. Preppy, classic, very soft, very stretchy, great colors. It’s super classic but also v cool. High Sport, $680
3. Another excellent, preppy sweater vest - this time in a more abstract print. I love that the colors are still muted, while the whole effect is very statement. Tory Burch, $258
4. Possibly the preppiest, best one of all time - this is men’s, so it will be oversized, but still the principle stands, and the vest would be perfect with these pants. J.Crew, $72
5. These are the little ballet flats I’m wearing here - they have nice cushion at the bottom, and are super stripped back. I love them. Margaux, $180
6. For a little more look, the Margiela Satin Tabis! Oooooo I want them. Maison Margiela, $690
7. The world’s most perfect tote bag. Sweet, beautiful, precious baby, I love it so much. Métier, $2,550
8. And a green tote! I’d wear this with a solid colored neutral top rather than the one I have on here, but I love this bag. Mansur Gavriel, $595
9. Finally, the belt again. If you’re going to show the waistband, you’re going to need a belt. Madewell, $50
And there you go! Proportions! With wide-leg pants!
This was a fun one.
Love, your friend,
Laurel
Would you say the Citizens of Humanity Paloma pans are fairly lightweight for summer? Thank you so much!
Loved your throwback Banana Republic comment - I still think of a khaki green bag with a leather strap I had from there circa 1999. Divine.